停止:看在“創(chuàng)意”的面子上
I like this simple order that is seen on Tokyo street corners. It simply says, "stop" to all of us who are rushing to cross the street.
Former New Yorkers like me are constantly crossing against the traffic lights in our rush to get somewhere but when I work in Tokyo, this simple sign is a reminder to follow the customs and rules of this society. It is a simple request to honor the ways of local culture.
Tokyo's business and creativity is battered by the global crisis, but the streets themselves may disguise the pain that has been afflicted upon the middle-class. After all, it looks like everyone is still shopping. This is a culture that hides its problems in ingenious ways.
What is equivalent to what in America is called the "New Normal" in Japan?
Young Japanese consumers have turned their attention to local brands, not because of price but for the uniqueness that they offer.
Designers from the high-end and manufacturers known more for value are entering arranged marriages outside of their social standing.
Comme de Garcon's highly successful collaboration with H&M created new awareness for the retailer because Rei Kawakubo is not your "normal" glamour brand designer.
This past week's announcement of Jil Sander's new partnership with Uniqlo had both the designer and Tadashi Yanai beaming.
"I bet you are surprised to see me here." said Jil Sander.
Well, yes...and no.
The new world order means that collaborations are the new order where unlikely marriages will equal survival or growth. Perhaps, in the land where double branding has such a rich commercial history, Japan will show us how this strategy can offer more than an occasional exclusive product or PR stunt. What is interesting about the Jil Sander and Uniqlo partnership is that both pride themselves on quality within their respective price category. Some of the early newsmaking collaborations often lacked in quality and a contemporary expression of " value " which will be important in today's culture of New Normal.
"Mass" no longer means less in quality or originality.
我很喜歡這個(gè)在東京街道上到處可見的命令, 非常簡單又直接地告訴我們不要急著過馬路。像我這個(gè)以前住過紐約的人,常常不遵守交通規(guī)則,亂過馬路,來到東京,這個(gè)“停止”的命令再一次提醒我,應(yīng)該要遵守東京當(dāng)?shù)氐牧?xí)俗與規(guī)矩,這是一種尊重當(dāng)?shù)匚幕姆绞健?/p>
東京的商業(yè)以及創(chuàng)意受到全球經(jīng)濟(jì)危機(jī)的影響,但是在街上我完全看不到中等階級遭受經(jīng)濟(jì)危機(jī)的影響,看起來大家都繼續(xù)買東西, 日本文化非常懂得如何掩蓋他們社會上的問題。
在日本我們是不是能夠找到在美國所謂的“新標(biāo)準(zhǔn)”?
年輕的日本人目前對日本當(dāng)?shù)氐膹S牌比較喜好,不只是因?yàn)閮r(jià)錢好,同時(shí)也是因?yàn)槿毡颈镜貜S牌具有獨(dú)特的品質(zhì)。高價(jià)廠牌設(shè)計(jì)家以及大眾化的廠商在他們的社交場合之外已經(jīng)開始合作。
Comme de Garcon’s 最近與H&M的合作給服裝專賣界帶來一個(gè)全新的感覺,因?yàn)镽ei Kawakubo不是一般大眾化的廠牌設(shè)計(jì)家。
兩個(gè)禮拜前,Jil Sander 宣布她與Uniqlo的最新合作關(guān)系,這個(gè)消息讓Tadashi Yanai 笑臉滿面。
“你大概很驚訝看到我吧?”Jil Sander 笑著說。
或許是,或許不是。
在這個(gè)新的世界里充滿了新標(biāo)準(zhǔn), 這種新的合作關(guān)系里,不見得兩個(gè)廠牌融合就能夠保證廠牌的長壽或是生意的成長?;蛟S在商業(yè)歷史上我們曾經(jīng)見過兩個(gè)廠牌合作成功的例子,日本現(xiàn)在有機(jī)會來顯示這種新的策略比高級商品專賣的推廣方式更有效。。Jil Sander與Uniqlo的合作,最難得的是他們雙方都是以品質(zhì)優(yōu)先,不管是在高價(jià)或是大眾化價(jià)錢的范圍里。有一些比較早期的廠牌合作,他們通常不注重品質(zhì),而且缺乏對現(xiàn)代價(jià)值觀定義的了解,這種價(jià)值觀在今天文化的新標(biāo)準(zhǔn)里是非常重要的。
“大眾化”并不表示品質(zhì)低,或者是沒有獨(dú)特性。
-John C Jay
